En Calais

Delightful Dordorgne

Ah the Dordogne, and the town of Limieul at the confluence of the River Vezere and the River Dordogne.  Camping la ferme de Perdigat is a fantastic site nestling at the base of tree-lined hills along the Vezere.  It’s run by a husband and wife who’ve had the site for many years and they are incredibly welcoming and have a lovely pool and restaurant/bar area set inside an old barn which still has some of the old farm instruments fastened to the walls.  They had something going on, in a very relaxed way, each evening, be it a bbq, band night with Monsieur on his guitar and a couple of his friends on accordian and pipes, pizza evening, boules... 

We had given B,A and T the choice of evening meals for the week, so in the weekly shop we lots of interesting ingredients.  

We were treated to the following:

Ben’s bistro treated us to:           Starters – Mini meringues topped with creme fraiche and grapes

                                                                Main – Cheese burgers as big as your head and frites

                                                                Dessert – Chocolate brioche

Amy’s delicious diner created    Starters - foie gras and fig and nut boursin (separately on toast)

                                                                Main – Omelette, frites and green salad

                                                                Dessert – Daddy’s special toasts with cream cheese and jam

Tom’s tremendous rest’t had     Starters – pate and saucisson

                                                                Main – sausage and tomato pasta

                                                                Dessert – ‘special’ chocolate pots and cream

On the 15^th we left the site and cycled from the farm into Limieul along the cycle track that Kev had come across after his early morning mountain bike round route or ‘boucle’.  We had a fab time with all 5 of us on our bikes cycling along the dusty path, across the grass lawn infront of a beautiful chateau that had been converted into gites, alongside fields of sunflowers, apple trees and tobacco plants (yes I couldn’t believe it either but the smell was very distinct and we saw them drying in large racks the next time we cycled passed).  Unfortunately some of the crops were getting a good dousing from a large water system which was hitting about 50 feet of track.  We all followed Kev like sheep and by the time we got through to the other end we were pretty soaked and laughing our heads off (well most of us anyway, a little pink someone wasn’t very happy with her Mummy and Daddy at all!)  We wandered around Limieul up and up through the cobbled streets that wound around the town and finished off the trip with Artisan icecreams and for Kev an artisan beer –yum!  We joined several families for a river swim in the fading afternoon sunshine then retraced our steps back along the track, this time the pipe had fortunately finished its irrigation for the day.  We managed to skype Kev’s Mum for her birthday (I was a lovely beetroot colour having run around the block following my latest instructions from ‘couch to 10k’, yes I was managing to keep it up).  We dined at Ben’s Bistro that night.

The following day we headed to L’Abbaye de Cadouin for a Medieval day.  Lining the town’s square were jugglers, imps on stilts who Tom took an instant dislike to, bands and dancers, a blacksmith making knives, old fashioned wooden games to play with, archery for everyone to have a go at and many stalls selling medieval style clothes, jewellery, trinkets, knives.  At night they were holding an evening banquet, a candlelit procession around the abbey and as a finale a fire spectacular, but we decided to head home as proceedings didn’t start until 9.  

We spent the remainder of the afternoon lazing around the pool and as mentioned were treated to an Amy special tea.

The 17^th was a relaxed site day.  Kev had headed off mountain biking around the wooded hills and valleys of La Bugue for a couple of hours so we lazy lie-ins didn’t rise until 9, then breakfasted leisurely with copious cups of coffee.  The children went off to the play area for football practice as Mia had informed us that it was the first day of the Saturday morning season and I therefore wandered down to the pool and swam for an hour, on my own in the pool, which was surrounded by cherry and marron trees that provided enough shade for cover in the late afternoon but not too much in the morning to make it chilly.  I spent an idyllic hour letting my mind wander.  Lunch was a simple but delicious of melted cheese on toasted baguette with green salad washed down with a glass or two of rose.  The children feasted on a picnic in the small red wendy house in the park.  Afternoon school arrived at camp but as predicted not everyone’s mind was focused on lessons, we’re all much better in the morning!

Next day was busy in holiday terms, with the alarm going off at 8.05.  The van was cool and dark.  I was very tempted to switch it off and go back to sleep but made a supreme effort and set off on my morning run just after 8.15.  I left camp and threaded my way up the dusty pale yellow road between fields of sunflowers, plum and apple trees, passed the artist’s house where last night came sounds of drums, accordians and singing, around the mound and then right passed the gite with the perigordian tower along the row of poplar trees which provided shade to the small herd of limousin cattle and back along the river bank to camp.  Having rinsed all of yesterdays wash and hung the clothes up, so creating a widow twanky effect at camp we set off to meet the sangliers of MonteMart. 

Provided with three large carrier bags of stale bread we descended passed a stubble field and a large open 4 Ha enclosure, wooded in one area and with a large wallow pool of oozing mud.  There were 6 enclosures of similar type with animals at different stages – juvenilles, mothers and babies, mothers with dominant boars and babies which were adorable with their dappled and fawn coloured coats.  The sanglier (wild boar), unlike a domestic pig, has a really long snout, thin face, arched back that falls away at the rear and a very long tail that it switches continuously.  Only the boars appeared to have the tusks and they stood approx 1 metre at their shoulder – they also tasted delicious in a rillette!  In the afternoon we headed to the caves of Rouffignac where we saw beautiful lined drawings dating back 15000 years of bison, mammoth, ibex and woolly rhinocerous.   It was hard to believe that the people who drew these animals in such detail would have actually seen these animals walking around the outside of this cave’s entrance.  We also saw scratches from the cave bears that had lived there before man had come to the region and where they had scoured out nests from the soft clay, which had since hardened, as they prepared to hibernate.

Kev cycled back from Rouffignac and in the evening we prepared to attend ‘la marche sous la lune’ in Limieul.  It sounded idyllic but on arrival it was simply a large repas.  The scene looked fantastic with 100s of people dining along trestle tables beside the river, eating from stalls selling vietnamese food, pig on a spit and potatoes, greek, indian and french food and lashings of beer and wine.  Sadly we had eaten already so we headed back to camp in the last of the sun’s rays and as the full moon rose in the sky.  Ben rode out ahead with a head torch under his cycle helmet whilst Ames and Tom snuggled under fleecy blankets in the trailer behind Kev.  It sounds and was idyllic.  The camp was holding a large bbq of its own so we sat and drank a glass of local beer and listened to the band.  Tom and I had a fantastic time dancing together, first at the table then we moved onto the grass and finally out onto the farmyard.  The large barn roof above us was silhouetted in the silvery pale moonlight.  We left just after 10 but the music floated out in the night air for a good couple of hours.  These guys know how to repas, we need to bring it back to the Island!

We left Limieul on 20^th and headed to one of our favourite spots in France, beautiful Brantome and the village of Cantillac, the home of la famille McNally.  As their lovely home is located on the top of a hill, we had to plan our route of ascent very carefully.  We left the van on one side of the hill and did a reccy, then Kev dropped us off at Sue and Simon’s along with the 5 bikes, awning and poles then he and Simon retrieved the van and brought it up the least vertiginous back route.  Within 15 minutes the van was secured on their gravel drive and we were catching up under the arbour over their patio.  We had a wonderful couple of days together.  

The first night was the usual let’s stay up late, drink lots of vino and put the world to rights.  The next day we managed to get out for a bike ride to St Jean de Cole (just) along a green way and then spent the afternoon larking in the pool.   With not such a late following night Sue very kindly let me spring clean the van (duvets, bedding, clothes, flooring, upholstery, cupboards- the whole van looked the shiniest it had all Summer and smelt so clean and fresh!!  The boys went out for a mountain bike ride in the afternoon, whilst Sue and I ventured into Brantome with Ames and Tom to feed the ducks and have a mooch around the boutiques.  It was baking and the heat resonated from the stone walls.  We were glad to get back up to the pool for the last of the afternoon’s sun, which lazily turned into evening with aperitifs on the pool patio which looks out over a sea of trees and a relaxing dinner and late night chats.  Many thanks to Sue, Simon and Ruairi for their wonderful hospitality and the run of their beautiful home.

On the 23^rd, with heavy hearts, we started our journey north, a journey of 9 hours.  All went without a hitch and we arrived in Les Petit Anderlys just in time for our last Lidl run and a sunset dinner.  Yesterday we walked to the market in Anderlys town, a little further than we had expected.  The weather really had taken a turn for the worst and by late afternoon the rain had set in (booooo!)  Today we endeavoured to do some last minute ‘french’ shopping then spent the afternoon hunkered down in the rainy weather doing the last of the scrapbook challenge, writing blogs and starting to pack the van up.  The weather is supposed to improve slightly for the next couple of days, but I think that it’s time that we look to the north and head home to see our wonderful friends and family.  You have been in our thoughts often and just wish you could have come with us, perhaps a little part of these blogs have let you do so.  Thanks for sticking with me, it’s been an amazing adventure.  We’re already planning to do it all again in 9 years time – roll on Oz!!!! 

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Go West

The trip into the west and to the town of Andernos Les Bains went without a  hitch, oh except when we tried to drive under the underpass in Biganos and nearly lost the caravan roof.  The height of the underpass was 2m6, our car+ bike / caravan height was also 2m6.  We scraped through with nothing to spare and a stream of angry French drivers behind us blaring their horns and showing their frustration and disbelief with expressive arm movements.  Camping Fontaine Vielle is a lovely site right on the edge of the Arcachon Basin, unfortunately for us as we arrived late in the afternoon and this being the height of the French summer holidays they only had 1 pitch available for the week.  This was the size of a postage stamp, on an angle, surrounded by shrubbery and oh yes, the electric point was too far away for our long electric cable.  We made the best of it for the first night, even went so far as erecting the awning, and by the following morning a larger site + electric had become available.  We re-packed, shuffled up the site 100 metres and set up camp again.  Ben set up a games afternoon for us, a whole afternoon that is.  He was in a very happy and content mood as he set off that evening to find out what games entertainment was being provided by the camp and was delighted when he came runner up to the 15 year old winner of the jousting-style knockout game!

During the rest of the week we spent our time cycling on the cycle track up to the local town and walking to the end of the promenade to look at the crab population, climbing up Dune de Pyla, the largest sand dune in Europe, and running down the other side (the children that is, Kev and I were lumping a cool box full of lunchtime goodies and a bag of towels/ swimmers with us), cycling to Cap Ferrat (Ames and Tom on their bikes for the first couple of miles then we locked these up and continued with them in the trailer along the cycle paths through the dunes to the long sandy beach with huge Atlantic breakers – Ben was spotted at the front of the group of swimmers!! 

Then returned back through the dunes to their bikes and watched Tom leap back on his bike and cycle a la Ca-ven-dish back to the car.  Unfortunately his sprinting with gusto ended in disaster as he tried to out race his brother and came a cropper on the tarmac, but he was very brave and within minutes was back on again and cycling at speed. )

The Arcachon Basin is a lovely protected stretch of coastline and has the most glorious sunsets.  

I managed to get a couple of cool early morning runs along the esplanade beside the basin (think a very large Gansy Bay) with the boats bobbing at anchor and the sky a milky blue wash, arrghh just lovely.  

Tarn-tastic

A great deal of holidaying has happened since we said good bye to the Johnstons.   We spent the first week of August in the lovely region of Quercy, which is south of the Dordogne.  We arrived on the 30^th July and spent the first 2-3 days swimming in the municipal pool which belonged to the site but could also be used by the locals.  It was set into the hillside in a kidney-shape and the water was fabulously cool when the weather was so hot.  In the mornings we focused a little on school, be it maths or scrapbook challenge, then after lunch lazed under the trees on the pool’s grassy slopes reading and playing cards.

On the 3^rd we headed over to the beautiful town of St Antonin Nobel Val on the Aveyron River.  The route around the town took you passed an old byre where they shod cows!, down narrow alleyways with houses dating from medieval times, to the quay where we saw a snake cooling itself off in the river and then through the back streets to a small square (20 ft x 20 ft) which had housed 6 bakeries.  We lunched by the river then visited the town of Bruniquel, which has a tower named Brunhilda.  In the 6^th century Brunhilda, daughter of the king of the Visigoths, and her sister-in-law were at war.   Brunhilda, was killed brutally by being tied by her hair, an arm and a leg to the tail of an unbroken horse and smashed to pieces (how horrendous!)  I really couldn’t forget this tale as I walked up the idyllic hillside passed artisan shops, where you could hear the bees in the jasmine and pigeons in the roof spaces.  The afternoon was spent river swimming and we saw another snake cooling off in the shallows.  Ben and Ames had great fun floating down the middle of the river (at speed) then walking back up to do it all over again.

The following day we had an idyllic bike ride from Camping Fleuriel along the river.  We’d spent the morning looking around Cahor for an inner tube as Kev’s bike had had another puncture, but to no avail.  We located a bike hire place set in a small bamboo plantation (trees 30 ft high- think Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon) where Kev could hire a bike. We set off with Tom in the front of the trailer and Ames sat behind, but they soon swapped as Tom was dragging his feet on the floor causing severe friction!  We travelled along a wooded area, passed a chateau undergoing sever restoration (quite a large project) and down a steep hill to the river floor.  We cycled through vineyards, hamlets with Perigordian style houses and a tower (for Amy!)  We picnicked by the river at a stone table and chair set under a hazel tree.  On the journey back poor Kev got another puncture (this time on the hired bike) so had to cycle like the wind before the tyre deflated with Tom and Ames clinging to the inside of the trailer for dear life (good training for the End to End!) Ben and I had a wonderful afternoon talking all the way there and back.  In the evening we all lay on our backs bedside the van’s awning on a rug and did some stargazing.

Another lazy campsite day followed – it was stinking hot so not much else to do, however we did have an afternoon of mini golf en famille – it got more and more competitive as we went along!  

In the evening we went for a fantastic randonee around the countryside of Montpezat de Quercy.  We set off from the main square, about 35 of us) after exchanging our registration vouchers for a billet de repas.  Down the hillside, along the edge of a large stubble field that had just been cut and at the bottom of the field turned towards the far corner.  In the bushes alongside the fields signs said ‘refuge’ – a safe haven for the local wildlife from la chasse (the hunt).  The route was lined with oak trees and as we walked the guy in charge pointed out various things, a particular old oak tree, a brook where a miracle carp was found, the wallow hole of a sanglier (wild boar).  At the 5 km refreshment point Kev, Ames and Tom peeled off and joined us later at the 10 km finish for the evening meal.  Ben and I continued for the extra 5 kms and spent another wonderful 2 hours talking and laughing.  The land rolled out in front of us, beautiful chalk inclines and synclines planted with peach, apple and plum trees, wheat (ble), barley and huge fields of sunflowers.  As the sun set over the large sun flower field and the sky above turned to a purple-blue hue, it was idyllic.  Air smelt heavy with life. 

We arrived back at the Marie’s square about 9.30 and by 10 several glasses of rose had been quaffed, coke and orange juice for the children and the repas started- soupe l’oignon, saucisse et chips, citron pain/ gateau and a peche.  We left just before midnight having met new friends and having had a fantastic night to remember.

We met up with our sister and brother-in-law, Sharon and Paul, with their children Harry and Libby the following day in the town of Soulihac.  We’d agreed to meet at the Tourist Office which all went swimmingly, but we must have been  rather noisily/ excitedly chatting as one of the staff pointedly came over and asked if she could help us, ie be helped or get out!  Just as we’d acquired some information the fire alarm started blaring and people were running frantically around.  Kev had been leaning against a wall where the alarm was housed and obviously lent a little too hard!  We scarpered pretty quickly to find a bar and continue our chats.  The children were very excited at seeing their cousins and being allowed coke to drink!  We headed off for a river swim at Soulihac, on a gorgeous grassy spot opposite a gorge wall on the Dordogne River – a perfect place to while away several hours over a lazy picnic.  The girls chatted as the boys wallowed in the water.  We all swam to the far bank.  In the evening we headed into another beautiful old medieval town for dinner and were herded inside as their understanding was that a grande orage was about to arrive.  Clouds were gathering as we said our goodbyes and left the valley.  Lightening could be seen behind us, Ben exclaimed at every bolt as we all listened avidly to Roald Dahl’s ‘Matilda’. (Should mention here that I was driving so that my boy could have a couple of beers during the day).  Then suddenly the storm was upon us.  It’s a very primeval feeling to be so surrounded by such earthly power.  The sky was dark except every time the lightning bolts struck and by the time we reached a long stretch of hillside it was everywhere – in front, behind and to both sides.  I drove like I was being chased and can remember the hairs on my arms standing up and having goose bumps everywhere.  There was a huge flash in front of us, it could only have been 200 metres.  We flashed past the start of a metal bridge, it must have been spanning a gorge as it went on and on, talk about the Bridge of Kazadoom!  The rain by this time was torrential, we were in the middle of nowhere and other headlights few.  We pulled over to let the worst pass – BOOM, FLASH, FLASH, FLASH, BOOM, BOOM, BOOM (it was like the T-Rex scene in Jurassic Park.)  I had to set off again as the rain was relentless and I’d heard stories of hail the size of golf balls.  We sped home along flooded roads and arrived at the site just in time, behind this storm  another had appeared over the hill to descend.  Kev and Ben stood under the awning watching as I curled up under the bunk with Ames as T-Rex hit again and again.  Tom slept through the entire thing and by morning the sky was grey and the temperature had fallen but at least the terror of the previous night was over.

It’d been a rather busy and interesting few days in this idyllic location.  The following day we chilled and made plans for our trip into the west and the Arcachon Basin.

Making The Most Of It

Only a couple of weeks left so making the most of 30 C heat

Le Famille Johnston

And so it came to pass, after 69 days of waiting, Amy and Ellie were reunited.  I actually missed the grand reunion, Mia saw it all and said it was very moving, but it was lovely to see them together again and they were inseparable for the next 7 days (24/7)!   

We’d set off from the previous campsite with Kev’s words of “we’ve never left camp so early, we should be there before 12” ringing in our ears.  This was before we followed the SatNav which took us straight into road works.  A quick u-turn with 7 metres of van behind and we set off up the trunk road, only to take another wrong turn (Kev was listening to the local radio station and got a bit distracted!?!)  Anyway, we managed to get there before the J’s arrived so there was some semblance of order by the time they reached the site (I’d just forgotten the baguettes but that was only a minor hindrance with Lidl around the corner!)

We spent a relaxing afternoon around the pool as the children frolicked in the water and zoomed down the waterslides.  Excited chatting and drinking vino with friends continued (as it tends to on that 1^st night) later than it should, and at 12.30 (eek) the next door caravanner poked his head out of the window and reminded us (all in French) that it was very late, he’d been listening to us for a long time and it really was time we went to bed!?!  We reduced our volume significantly and within an hour decided that yes it probably was time to head off to bed.

As breakfast the following morning didn’t occur until about 10 (Mia v kindly took on the role of ‘Pancake Provider’) we thought we might have missed Monsieur Frenchy (or The Greyback as he became known) but oh no, he was having breakfast en famille.  Oh the shame!!!  Don’t worry we only had to endure it for another 5 days.

Somewhat jaded we managed to grab beachwear and a picnic lunch together and setting off in 2 cars sped off for Canet Plage.  We were met by a beautiful expanse of white sand, blue sea and sky.  There was lots of playing in the waves (Amy and Ellie were spotted holding hands and jumping over the surf whilst the boys lay in the breaker zone being rolled over by the waves) and diving for fish.  We headed back for a steak bbq and for the girls an early night (the boys not quite as early!)

On the 26^th we headed into Perpignan for lunch.  We’d asked Kev to go on Trip Advisor and find a restaurant with good reviews and La Creperie au Theatre had come up with several stars, so having parked our cars on a lovely boulevard and then re-parked them in an underground car park having realised we could only stay in the former for a couple of hours we ventured off.  It was hot, it was after 1, the children didn’t want to walk any further, it was hot (did I say that already!!) and having walked through a lovely square with fountains playing, La Creperie didn’t live up to expectations, so we all agreed to turn tail (much to Kev’s relief) and headed back to the square for a lovely relaxing lunch.  The children adored playing in the fountains and the wall behind where we were sitting was so strewn with clothes drying by the end, when I went to get “L’addition” and the waiter asked where I was sitting and then said, “ avec les vetements” I knew it was time to go home!

The following day was planned as a market and beach day but as we advanced towards the coast a brouillard or fog could be seen hanging over the area and the wind on arrival at the promenade would give Ramsey’s easterly a run for its money.  A little sandblasted we walked along the seafront to the market where after a couple of minutes of browsing we sent the big boys off for beers whilst Mia, the children and I parted with our hard-earned Euros.  They had a lovely time buying flip-flops, friendship bracelets, cherries and ice-cream before being caught up by Tim and Kev.  Having got the low-down from the local Tourist Office we headed back to the cars (T/M+ children on the promenade), (Kev, Ben and me on the beach – it was refreshing if not a little sharp on the legs - the boys were running in and out of the surf and collapsing the sand walls that had developed) and then to an inshore lake.

The position of the lake was beautiful, the Pyrenees as a backdrop, however the lake contents were not to be pondered over.  Anyway it was 35+ in the shade and it provided a much needed place to cool off.  The children had the most fantastic time with Tim and Mia on the lilo, they all got on so well and bickered and laughed so much!

That night on scooter, bike and foot, we wended our way up to Canet old town to listen to their festival.  It was truly magical.  The old stone walls radiated the heat of the day and sandwiched between the town hall and the church, a rock band blasted out their ballads.  Everyone was having a ball.  I chatted to elegant local ladies about their jewellery, their family and line dancing (country is big in France although these particular ladies couldn’t believe its popularity) and when ABBA’s songs came on Mia and I raced onto the floor together.  Great fun!  By midnight we were wending our way home and Ben J pointed out the lights in the sky.  Oh it must be lasers or something.  It was actually the largest lightning storm over the Pyrenees I’ve ever seen.  It was fantastic to witness and must have gone on for at least a couple of hours before we went to bed and then came over us about 4am as a deluge.

A relaxing pool day followed where les parents read lots of books and the children frolicked and played in the water (dived, swam, slid, played piggy in the middle, catch etc etc.)  Oh I haven’t mentioned that Mia and I went out for an early morning run (oh so virtuous, but has given me the kick that I needed to get back into it).  Had a very giddy girls lunch (yes you had to be there!?!) followed by a girls bike trip to Lidl where we filled the children’s trailer with goodies for that night and the next couple of days.  For dinner Mia treated us to grilled prawns on the BBQ, followed by salmon steaks for the girlies and entrecote for the boys.  Aperitifs were escargot which all the children tried (well they were bribed with E1, but heh at least they ate them) and the adults managed to swallow down.  Kev’s was particularly tasty looking with its antennae pointing out –uurrghhhh!

The following day we somewhat belatedly headed to Spain (as you do!) via Argeles and the coastal road to Port Bou.  We passed the old border gates (now somewhat run down and graffitied) down incredibly steep hills and s-bends to the small bay and town (which was really rather run down but at least we were over the border).   The boys unloaded us all by the grey shale beach and parked the cars in a cavern underneath the railway lines.  It was a huge structure, some 30-40 metres high, like the side of an amphitheatre.

We lunched and swam from the beach.  The children were telling us all about the fish they could see, including a tuna!!! Ben G, Mia and I stole ourselves out to the diving platform some 50 m from shore.  It had started out with the whole gang of children but little by little they dropped off until just the 3 amigos remained.  It must be said that it was slightly scary diving into the inky abyss, but when your 8 year old son is doing it, you just have to get on with it!

Back in France we ate out at a lovely seafood restaurant overlooking a leisure/working harbour.  The children’s moules-frites were the same size as the adults, yet they scoffed them down with gay abandon with Amy and Ellie picking up the remainders.  Mia’s calamari a la planxa has to be mentioned for the sheer rubberiness and size.  She has to be congratulated for the way she tackled this dish, but be warned, choose wisely for this is not a dish for the faint-hearted!!!! x

And so, the last day arrived.....  After another leisurely breakfast (had they been anything but all week!) Tim’s chocco rice was preferred to Kev’s chocco shells (sob, sob), I booked a session sea-kayaking for us all at Argeles-sur-Mer.  In boat 1 was Mia, Ames and myself, boat 2 Kev, Tom and Ben and boat 3 Tim, Ellie and Ben.  We had great fun riding the waves from the beach (peaks and troughs).  We girls got in a great rhythm and left the boys for dust. You could hardly see Ellie for her pink hat and large orange buoyancy aid.

There was a fair amount of squabbling going on in both boys boats whereas the girl’s boat was a picture of calm and camaraderie!!!  300 m from shore Ellie and Amy swapped boats and then when nearer the shore we played some games, one of which was to stand up when your number was called out.  I swear I didn’t wobble the kayak, but somehow my no.1 paddler fell in!!!!

We afternooned on the beach, under umbrellas and in chairs.  The beach shelved quite steeply with adults soon out of their depth in 3 m.  The boys dived from Tim’s shoulders and Kev threw them and the girls into the air like seal pups (too much Attenborough) but they were all squealing with delight!

A last supper was had and we chatted late into the night.  We’d put the children down to sleep in our van. It made me sad when I saw Ben J give both Ben and Tom a hug goodbye and then later to see Ellie lifted from her bed beside Ames after their inseparable week together, so that she could start her journey home.

Whether it was the late night chats, the tawny port or that we knew that our friends had an early start, when Tim knocked on the van to say that we had Ellie’s hire seat and they had Tom’s we were both awake.  A 5am seat swap is nothing between friends.

We’d had a wonderful week together and later that morning we set off for the hills north of Toulouse for a week of low-key relaxation and recovery.  

Hello From The Herault

On 22 Juillet we moved from Anduze, south west to the wine lands around the Herault region.  It was intensely hot as we arrived at our new municipal campsite where we ‘enjoyed’ a lunch of Crackerbreads avec rillette de poulet as we waited for the campsite office to open.  The boys running the site came over to let us know they’d opened for us, but were then horrified that I’d terminated my delicious lunch early just so that I could check in!  The site was fine (although no pool) however we’d pitched on top of a giant ant nest and below the same species of raspberry-like fruit tree as in Italy (see earlier blog) so that by the end of our short duration we had a bug infestation, our floor mats were covered in sticky fruit and the top of the van & awning were splattered in berry-poo!

To escape the intense heat of the site, we ventured up to St-Guilhem-le-Desert, a pretty village set deep a river gorge where the R. Verdus flows into the R. Herault to do a spot of canoeing.  As the youngest member of our party was only just 4, ‘Rapido Canoeing’ allowed us to tackle the cliff course ‘a tranquil section of river’ for 4 hours, although being France they shrugged and told us we could take as long as we liked.  We spent an idyllic few hours slowly paddling upstream (although ask the boys and they will tell you of the ‘great speed’ they advanced towards the river’s source!)  We passed a river cafe with sun loungers and little round tables sunk into the water, and a sign telling of boisson froid in the apres midi. 

We disembarked just short of an old mill and wiled away a couple of hours eating, chatting, swimming in the reed beds, throwing bread and ham to the local fish population (we enjoyed a surprise visit from a fresh water crayfish/ lobster who found the ham most delicious!).  Unfortunately I was still incapacitated with my knee injury so couldn’t partake in a cooling dip but it  did mean that I could be the official photographer for the day.

On return to camp and after tea we watched ‘Waking Ned’ on the DVD as the children hadn’t seen it (although I think we enjoyed this umpteenth viewing just as much) and made sure that we had an early night as tomorrow the Famille Johnston would be joining us on la grande vacance!